What the Cherokee Elders Refused to Say About the Tunnels Under Roan Mountain — Until 1909

What the Cherokee Elders Refused to Say About the Tunnels Under Roan Mountain — Until 1909

A Tennessee surveyor walked down from Roan Mountain in 1909 having lost his young assistant to a place the local elders had warned him never to enter. The mountain did not take the second man by force, and it did not chase him. It let him walk away, and he spent the rest of his life convinced it was only because the tally on the wall was a list of names still waiting to be called. Lucan Ashmore was 38 years old that winter, a careful professional who believed the world could be reduced to angles and elevations.

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He came up from the valley on a job for the iron railroad at Cranberry, which wanted to drive a spur into the mountain to reach ore it believed was buried underneath. The company had old survey notes from 1873 that described tunnels already under Roan, ancient workings framed in dressed stone that the iron men had not built. The 1873 party had sent three men up. Only one came down.

A guide named Absalom Teague walked out four days later with no lantern and no coat, and he never gave a clear account of what he had seen. He died less than a year afterward, talking low and even to a wall, saying he had been counted and let go, and that being let go was the part he could not bear. The other two men, engineer Hollis Renfrew and 22-year-old Verge Hartsell, never came down at all. The company filed the notes away unfinished.

More than 30 years later, the railroad pulled the notes out of a drawer and decided the problem was equipment and nerve. Ashmore took the job, with a young rodman named Orville Sturgis, 24, a cheerful big-shouldered man who treated the assignment like a hunting trip with pay attached. They stopped in a small settlement called Coldwater Notch, where the storekeeper went quiet when they said why they had come, and where the boarding house keeper, Ardis Coldwell, told them that Verge Hartsell had been her mother’s youngest brother. There was a stone for him in the churchyard, she said, but nothing under it, because there had been nothing to put there.

Before they went up, she sent them to see an old man named Enoch Walkingstick, nearly 80, a keeper of the long memory of that country. He told them there was no story about the mountain. There was a rule. The rule was that people did not go in.

He said the ones who kept the rule were safe, and the ones who broke it were not, and that there was no third kind. He warned them about the breathing. He said the mountain breathed down in there, slow, in and out, and that as long as it was breathing, a man was nothing to it. It was when the breathing stopped, he said, that a person had been seen, and after that it did not matter how fast they went.

The going fast, he said, was for them, not for it, so they would have something to do with their legs while it decided. They went up anyway. They found the tunnel mouth framed in old cut stone that no one could account for, and the 1873 notes had already commented on the stonework with a line Ashmore read a dozen times without understanding: the work does not match the workers we can account for. Sturgis threw pebbles into the dark, and they never heard them land.

That night by the fire, Ashmore caught himself breathing in time with the slow draw of air out of the tunnel, and stopping it cost him something, like turning his back on someone mid-sentence. They went in at first light. The notes led them through fitted stone and then natural passage. They passed clusters of marks cut into the walls in rows, and the clusters grew larger the deeper they went.

Ashmore noted them as tally marks of unknown purpose. He wrote privately that he did not know whether they were counting up or counting down. The 1873 notes stopped mid-word, mid-measurement, in the middle of recording an angle, with a pencil drag off the edge of the page. Ashmore went on past that point into ground no map covered.

The smell changed deeper in, clean and old, like a coin held too long in the hand. The marks crowded together until they climbed the walls and crossed the ceiling, and Ashmore stopped trying to count them because it had begun to feel like an invitation. Sturgis went quiet. Ashmore noticed that he had been hearing only his own footsteps, and when he looked back, the young man was walking on the balls of his feet, the way you walk past something sleeping, and shook his head once as if to say do not break the quiet.

The passage opened into a large chamber. The light would not reach the far side of it. When Ashmore spoke to test the space, there was no echo at all. The sound was swallowed, the same way the thrown stones had been swallowed.

The floor was worn smooth, dished by what looked like ages of use. Ashmore knelt and put his hand flat on it, and the thought came to him, almost peaceful, that this place had been used for a long time by a great many. Then the breathing stopped. The air stopped moving, and the silence that came down was not an absence of sound but the presence of a waiting.

He remembered the old man’s words whole. He had been seen. Out in the dark across the floor, the breathing started again, slower and closer. Sturgis made a sound Ashmore had never heard a grown man make.

Ashmore turned and saw the wall beside them, the near wall, the one still touched by the light. The tally marks were there, but there were more now than there had been on the way down. A great dense field of new ones, freshly cut, the stone dust still pale in the grooves. While they had stood in the center of that worn floor, something had been at the wall behind them, counting.

They ran. Sturgis was ahead, younger and faster, and he ran a few strides out ahead of the light into the dark of the passage. The breathing changed. It came from in front of them.

Ashmore stopped and called the young man’s name and got no answer. He stood in the passage holding the lantern, and he made a decision he never forgave himself for. He understood that if he went forward, there would not be one man lost. There would be two.

He went back alone, and the breathing followed him the whole way up at a patient, unhurried distance, the way you walk a guest to the door. He understood that it had taken the number it was going to take, and that he was not, this time, the number. He came out alone into the last gray light, and the men from the notch found him by the spring. He never saw Orville Sturgis again.

The company sent parties back in three times that winter. The first group refused to speak of it and quit rather than go again. The second group found the great worn floor and the wall of tally marks, and took a photograph. The developed image showed something in the lower corner at the edge of the light that the men swore had not been in front of the camera when the picture was taken.

Three separate written accounts of that photograph survive, and no two agree on what the something was. The man who carried the camera counted the tally marks in sections and wrote the running total in a pocketbook. He did not finish out the year, and at the end he talked low and even to no one, repeating the same number over and over, the way Absalom Teague had repeated his own few words before him. The third party did not come back at all, and that ended the company’s interest in driving a spur into Roan Mountain.

In the spring of 1909, the elders of that country were finally formally asked what they knew. At a meeting that lasted into the night, they told the men with authority that the place under the mountain had been known to their people for longer than they had words to measure. It was not a place of going in. The staying out was not superstition.

It was knowledge, the same as the knowledge that keeps you back from the edge of a high place. And the rule was the only protection that had ever worked. The elder Walking Stick said one more thing the record notes, that the counting on the walls was not a record of those who had gone in, but a record of those still to come. The clerk who wrote it down struck a line through it, then evidently thought better and let the struck line stand, so it can still be read.

The men with authority then did what men with authority do when they have learned something that helps no one and frightens everyone. They gathered the notes, the dictated account, the photograph and the depositions, and the record of the elders’ meeting. They sealed them. They blasted the tunnel mouth closed, carted away the rubble, and let the spring run over the scar until no one walking that fold of the mountain today would know a black slot had ever been there.

Ashmore left that country and never surveyed again. He took up careful indoor work and lived an ordinary span of years. But he could not abide a closed room with the lamp out, and he kept a light burning by him every night of his life. And he counted under his breath when he thought no one could hear, stopping to listen the way you listen for an answer, never sure whether the number he was at was counting up or counting down.

He went back to Coldwater Notch only once, an old man, years later. He stood in the churchyard at the stone for Verge Hartsell and at the stone they had set for Orville Sturgis, which had the same nothing under it as the Hartsell stone. His lips were moving, and the people who saw him thought he was praying until they realized he was not. He was counting.

The one time anyone got him to speak of it, he said that down in that room on the worn floor, in the few seconds before the breathing stopped, he had understood that the tally on the wall was a list of names still to be called, and that his own name was somewhere on that wall cut into the stone waiting. He had been let go, he said, not because he was not on the list, but because the mountain was in no hurry at all. A thing with all the time there was could afford to let a number walk back out and live a whole life, because that number was not going anywhere the mountain could not reach in the end. He asked them not to ask him any more about it.

He lived a few more quiet years with the light burning every night, and then one winter he did not wake up, and the people who found him said his lips were moving even in his sleep, right up until they were not.