What a Cherokee Hunting Party Discovered in the Smokies in 1908 — No One in the Valley Slept Again

What a Cherokee Hunting Party Discovered in the Smokies in 1908 — No One in the Valley Slept Again

In the autumn of 1908, a valley in the Smoky Mountains fell into a quiet that did not lift for a generation. The valley sat between two ridges near where the Oconaluftee River bends and runs slow. White settlers called it Win Chase. The Cherokee had their own name for it, meaning roughly the place where the water doubles back.

The valley held a small wooden church, a general store, a blacksmith shed, and terraced farms. About eighty people lived there. The store was kept by Mordecai Sayer. The forge was run by Lorenzo Pickle. The oldest settler was Othniel Burnside, who had passed seventy that spring. A widow named Verbena Asher ran the last farm before the road bent up into Cherokee land.

On the Cherokee side lived the Standing Deer family. The grown son was Onacona, called Oni by everyone who knew him. He was thirty-eight years old, tall and rope thin, a man who did not waste a word. His wife had died in the spring of 1907. He hunted to keep meat in his mother’s smokehouse.

He hunted with his cousin Cassidy Welch, twenty-six, the loudest man in the valley. He hunted with Solomon Crow, fifty-six, quiet in the way old hunters are quiet. And he hunted with Enola Salmon Okey, forty-four, the best tracker in three counties. Those four men were the hunting party.

They knew the ridges and the saddles and the seasons of the deer and the bear. They also knew the places their grandfathers had told them not to go. The old Cherokee had places they did not go. The instruction was passed down with the right weight on the words. You did not hunt the eastern slope above the bend of Mingo Creek after the second frost. You did not cross into the hollow on the backside of Tassel Ridge. You did not follow game into the bowl the old ones called the place that listens.

On the morning of October 17, 1908, an elk crossed the meadow below Oni’s mother’s house. The four men picked up its trail before the sun was full above the ridge. By the middle of the afternoon, they were further into the back country than they had been in fifteen years. The trail did not stop. The trail did not turn.

Enola tracked the bull. He said the bull was old, by the depth of the print and the splay of the hoof. He said the bull was leading, not running. He said the bull knew where it was going. They climbed a ridge that did not have a name on any map. They dropped down the north side into a draw that ran black with shade even at noon. They crossed a creek twice.

By late afternoon, they were on high ground Oni did not recognize. He had hunted those mountains his entire life. He stopped them on a flat rock. He had felt a change about an hour earlier. The mountain had gone quiet. Not the quiet of a still day. A different quiet. The kind of quiet that was not absence but presence. The kind of quiet that paid attention.

Solomon caught his eye and held it. Solomon nodded once, very small. Cassidy was oblivious, eating a second biscuit. Enola walked back from the brush ahead of them. He said the trail goes down.

Below them, the ground dropped away into a hollow. A round, almost perfect hollow. The trees on its rim were old hemlocks, the kind that grow only where they have been left alone for centuries. Below the hemlocks, the ground was open and pale with leaf fall, and silent in a way the rest of the mountain was not silent.

On the far side, if a man squinted, he could just make out something pale and upright. A shape that did not fit. Enola had not found where the trail came out. Solomon looked over the edge and said one word in the old language. It was the name Oni’s grandfather had said to him when he was twelve.

Cassidy looked over the edge and whistled. He asked if they were going down. Solomon said no. Cassidy was about to laugh, because Cassidy laughed at everything. Then something in Oni’s face stopped him. The laugh died in his mouth.

Oni did the arithmetic. They were perhaps three hours from a place he could call familiar. They had maybe an hour and a half of full light. The elk was a good bull. His mother needed the meat. He thought about his grandfather, sitting on a porch with his eyes closed and two fingers held flat, pointing. He thought, it has been so long. Maybe what my grandfather meant was not exactly here.

He stood up. He picked up his rifle. He said, we go in. We do not go far. Solomon said he would go in if Oni went in, but they would walk together. They would not stay. They would not eat there. They would not drink the water there. They started down.

The descent took twice as long as a slope of that grade should have taken. Enola said he felt as if he were walking against a current. The air had a direction, and the direction was up. When they got to the floor of the bowl, Oni looked at his watch. It was not running. It had been wound that morning. It had not stopped in eight years.

Solomon’s watch was not running either. The sky over the bowl was the wrong color. It was paler. It was thinner. It had the look of a sky just before a storm, except there was no storm. There was no wind. There was nothing.

The bowl was perhaps three hundred yards across. The floor was leaf fall, a foot deep in places, undisturbed. The hemlocks around the rim were enormous. The biggest, Oni guessed, was over six hundred years old. They were the kind of trees that had been logged out of the rest of the Smokies long before any of these four men were born.

The bull was not on the floor of the bowl. There was no sign of any animal. There were no tracks in the leaf fall, including theirs. When Oni turned around and looked at where they had just walked, the leaves had not been disturbed by their boots.

Enola walked toward the center of the bowl. He stopped about halfway in. He squatted. He was looking at a depression in the leaf fall, a long oval depression about the length of a tall man lying down. The leaves in the depression were pressed flat. The leaves around it were not pressed at all. It was the shape of where a person had slept recently. But there was no track to it. There was no track from it.

Enola reached out and put his palm flat on the leaves. He pulled his hand back fast. He did not say what he had felt. He just said, warm.

Solomon was the first to look up. The pale upright shape was on the far side of the bowl. From this distance it was clearer. It was bone-colored. It was about the height of a tall man. It was upright.

The four men walked across the floor of the bowl toward it. The walk took, by Oni’s later guess, between twenty and twenty-five minutes. That was much too long for the distance. None of them spoke. None of them looked back.

The upright thing was a post. A post about six feet high, set into the ground, bone colored because it was old and weathered. Ringed at its top with a band of darker material. Enola reached for it, then pulled his hand back. The band was something braided. The braiding had the look of hair. Enola called it cord in his deposition, but he said the cord had the texture of hair.

At the base of the post, in the leaf fall, was a pile. It looked like a pile of stones. Closer in, the stones were the wrong shape. They were teeth. Old, brown with age, some split, some whole. Enola estimated four hundred. None of them human. He never said what he thought they were from.

Around the pile of teeth in the leaves were objects. Buttons. A buckle. A pewter spoon badly tarnished. A folded piece of cloth gray with age. A leather strip with two holes in it. A copper coin of a denomination Solomon did not recognize. None of the objects looked recent. All of them looked as if they had been placed there, arranged.

Cassidy, who had not spoken since the rim, spoke now. He said, these are people’s things. Nobody answered him.

Oni looked at the ground around the post. He scraped the leaves aside with his hand carefully. Two inches beneath the leaves was a layer of ash. Old ash, packed and pale. He scraped further. The ash kept going. He stopped scraping when he had gone about four inches down and the ash had not changed. He put the leaves back over what he had uncovered.

He stood up. He said, we are leaving now. Do not pick anything up. Do not touch the post. Do not turn your back to it until we are out of the bowl.

They started walking. Slow, even, no sudden movement. Enola went last because he could go last quietly. Cassidy went first. Solomon was second. Oni was third.

They got to about thirty feet from the post. Then Cassidy stopped. He had heard something. They all heard it. It was a low sound, very low, almost a vibration. It was around them.

Solomon said afterward it was the sound an enormous stone might make if it were being moved very slowly by an enormous weight. Cassidy said it was the sound of an animal much too big to exist breathing in. Enola said it was the sound of the bowl itself thinking.

Oni did not describe the sound in his deposition. He said only that he heard it, and that he understood as soon as he heard it that the bowl had been waiting for them to notice the post. They had noticed. The bowl had noticed them noticing. Now they had a very short time to get out.

He told them to run. They ran across the leaf fall, and the leaf fall did not record their passage. They ran up the slope, and the slope was steeper going up than it had been coming down. They ran through air that pushed back against them. They ran in a kind of gray light that should not have been on the mountain at that hour.

Behind them, the low sound went on. It was not following them. It was where they were. It was around them. It came up out of the ground under their boots and came down on them from the pale wrong sky. It was inside the bones of their faces. Solomon said it was the most patient sound he had ever heard.

They made the rim. They crossed the rim. They did not stop running until Cassidy fell. They picked him up and ran another quarter mile. They finally stopped, gasping, on the saddle where they had eaten the cold biscuits a lifetime ago.

The sun was where the sun should be for late afternoon. The wind was the right wind. The watches in Oni’s pocket and Solomon’s pocket, when they checked, were ticking. They had been gone by the time the watches said forty minutes. They had been in the bowl, by Oni’s count, the better part of an hour. They did not discuss the discrepancy.

They walked the rest of the way out of the back country in the gathering dark. They reached the valley well after full night. They did not go into the store. They went to Solomon’s house. Solomon’s wife opened the door and looked at their faces. She did not say a word. She put bread and meat and coffee on the table and went into the back room.

After they ate, Solomon went to the back room and got his wife. She sat down with them. She was a woman whose grandfather had been one of the men who knew the old names of places. She listened to their account without interrupting. When they were finished, she stood up and fed the fire. She said four words in the old language. Oni told the man later the words meant roughly, it has us by the edge of its hand.

Solomon’s wife went out that night. She went to the house of her own grandmother, who was ninety-one years old and blind since sixty. They sat together for two hours. When Solomon’s wife came back, she had small leather bags. She gave one to Solomon. She gave one to Oni. She gave one to Enola. Cassidy was not given one.

The old woman had made that call. The bags were to be carried at all times. They were not to be opened. They were not to be set down on the bare ground.

The trouble in the valley started the night of October 18. It started small. A dog at the Burnside place got out of the yard. Othniel Burnside woke to find the dog scratching at the door from the outside. The dog walked stiff-legged to the corner of the kitchen and lay down facing the wall. It did not move for the rest of the night.

The same night, Verbena Asher’s goats were all standing pressed against the rail at the south end of their pen, looking up the road. All seven of them. They were quiet. They had been standing there, she calculated later, for at least three hours.

Mordecai Sayer, the storekeeper, woke up at three minutes after three in the morning. He went back to sleep. He woke again the next night at exactly the same time. The night after that. By the end of the week, he was waking at the same moment every night. He began keeping a small notebook by the bed.

By the end of the second week, more than half the households in the valley were waking at the same minute. They began comparing notes at the store. Mordecai kept track in a ledger he kept under the counter.

Then the lamps started going out. Between the hours of three and four in the morning, the flames would not catch, or they would catch and burn very low, or they would lower themselves like a man bowing and go out. Mordecai reported eleven separate accounts of the same thing in seven days. He wrote in his ledger on a page near the back the phrase, the dark is being held. He did not show that page to anyone.

Oni noticed that his mother’s house, which sat closest to the trailhead where the four men had begun their hunt, had started to have a smell in the corners of certain rooms. It was the smell of old leaves, hemlock needles, the damp underside of a fallen log. It was the smell of the floor of the bowl. It came at night and went by morning.

He carried the leather bag. He did not open it. He did not set it on the ground. The bag was warm against his side at all times, even on cold nights.

Cassidy, who had not been given a bag, started losing weight. By the second week of November, his shirts hung on him. He did not look sick. He looked as if something were drawing on him, like a well slowly going down. He laughed less. When he did laugh, it was at the wrong moments.

He came to Oni one evening at the end of November. He said, I am not sleeping. He said, I see it when I close my eyes. He said, I think it is closer. Oni asked, closer to what? Cassidy said, to me.

They went to Solomon’s. Solomon’s wife heard the story. She said, I cannot give him what was not for him. She meant the bag. Cassidy understood. He did not argue.

She went into the back room. She came out with a small piece of carved wood, the size of a man’s thumb. She told him to keep it in his mouth under his tongue at night. She told him to put it in his pocket during the day. At night was when the drawing was the strongest. The wood needed to be where the breath was to do its work.

Cassidy put the wood in his mouth. He went home. He slept that night, the first night in many weeks. He slept the next night, and the next. On the fourth night, Cassidy’s mother came into his room before dawn because she had heard him laughing. She found him sitting up in bed with his eyes closed, laughing very quietly. The wood was on the table beside the bed.

She woke him. He looked at her. He stopped laughing. He said, mother, I am sorry. She asked him what was funny. He thought about it. He said, I do not remember.

After that, even with the wood in his mouth, he started waking again. At the time, Mordecai had been writing down in the ledger, three minutes after three. By the first week of December, every household in the valley was awake at three in the morning. By the second week, some households had stopped going to sleep at all before four.

That was when Mordecai Sayer did the thing he did. He was a practical man. He did not believe in things he had not seen with his own eyes. He had seen lamps go out. He had seen a settler named Win Drumheller walk past the porch of the store in full daylight, looking at him with the look of a man who was sleeping with his eyes open. Mordecai had said good evening. Win had not answered. Win had kept walking. When the road bent, Win had not bent with it. He had kept walking in a straight line into the brush, and the brush had not moved as he went through it.

Win Drumheller had not been seen since. His house was empty. His horse was in the barn. His boots were by the door.

Mordecai decided he was going to go up into the back country himself. He did not tell anyone he was going. He took a rifle, a lantern, and a sack of provisions. He left a note on the counter at the store. The note said only, gone to look. Back when back.

He left on the morning of December 9. He did not come back. He came back partly on December 12.

What came back was Mordecai Sayer, walking on his own legs, wearing his own coat, carrying his own rifle. What came back was not, by every account of every person who saw him, all of him. He walked into the store at about ten in the morning. His nephew, Phineas Coffee, looked up from the counter and said, uncle. Mordecai looked at him. Mordecai said, I am home. He said it the way a man says it who has been gone for many years.

He walked past Phineas into the back of the store. He sat down in the chair he always sat down in when he was tired. He closed his eyes. He did not open them for the rest of that day. He did not eat. He did not speak.

The next morning he came back to the store. He opened it on time. He kept it for the next forty-one years. In those forty-one years, he spoke when he was spoken to. He sold what was asked of him. He never once, by any account, laughed.

The ledger he had kept was on the counter when he came back. It was open to the last page he had written. The page had one new line on it in a different hand than his own. The line said, I am keeping him for the rest.

Phineas Coffee saw the line. He saw the handwriting. He put the ledger under the counter. He did not show it to Mordecai. Mordecai never asked to see it. The ledger was found in the same place under the counter the year Mordecai died in 1949.

There is more to the story. Verbena Asher’s goats went to the rail one night and did not come back from the rail in the morning. The pen was closed. The latch was thrown. There was no break in the fence. Verbena, who had buried two husbands and feared nothing, sold her land and moved to Knoxville inside the month.

Othniel Burnside outlived everyone the way he said he would. But in the last six years of his life, he would not sleep with the door of his bedroom closed. He told his nephew on the night before he died that he had figured out what was in the corner the dog had been looking at. He said he was glad to be going to it on his own feet rather than being come for.

The church on the north side closed for two months that winter. It reopened in February with new locks on every door, including the doors to the closets. The minister never preached on the book of Job again as long as he lived in the valley.

Cassidy Welch lived through that winter. He survived. He did not become Mordecai Sayer. He did not become Win Drumheller. But he was different. He was a quieter man. He stopped laughing at things that were not funny. He stopped for the most part laughing at things that were funny.

He stayed in the valley. He hunted with Oni and Solomon and Enola until Solomon got too old for the back country. After that, he hunted with Oni and Enola until Enola died of pneumonia in 1923. He never hunted alone. He never went up into the back country in any season. He kept the piece of cedar wood with him in a small leather sleeve around his neck for the rest of his life.

When he died in 1948, his sister put the cedar wood in his coffin under his tongue. That was what Solomon’s wife had told him to have done.

Oni Standing Deer lived until 1961. He gave a deposition in the spring of 1958 when he was eighty-eight years old. He spoke for four hours. The clerk wrote down every word. The last thing he said when the clerk asked whether there was anything else he wanted on the record was this.

He said, the bull, the elk we had been tracking, we never found him. He went into the bowl ahead of us and he did not come out. I think he was meant to take us in. I think the thing in the bowl needed the bull to bring us the way a man needs a lure to bring a fish to the bank. I think he did his work.

He said, I think he is still there. I think if a man went into the bowl tomorrow morning, he would find the bull standing at the post. The bull would be old, the way he was old then. He would not be hungry. He would not be thirsty. He would have been standing at the post a long time. I do not know what is owed to him. I have not figured it out. I am eighty-eight years old. I will not figure it out before I go. Someone else will have to.

Then he stopped speaking. The clerk asked if there was anything more. Oni shook his head. The clerk closed the book.

Oni died nine months later in his sleep at his mother’s old house. The leather bag, which he had carried for fifty-three years without opening, was still under his pillow. His nephew found the bag when he went to clean out the house. He did not know what it was. He put it in a drawer. The drawer was eventually moved to a trunk. The trunk was eventually given to a museum near Cherokee, North Carolina, where it has been since 1973.

The bag is on display in a glass case with a small card next to it. The card says only, personal item, Standing Deer family. Use unknown. The bag has never been opened. It is, by every account of the museum staff who have worked near it, warm to the touch through the glass.

The valley still exists. It is not called Win Chase now. The name was changed in the 1930s by a postmaster who said the old name had a feel to it he did not like. The houses are mostly the same houses. The church is still there. The store closed in the early 1960s. The Burnside place was bought by a family from out of state in the 1970s and is now a vacation rental. Verbena Asher’s land became a campground that did not last. The Standing Deer house is still in the family on Cherokee land.

The people who live there now will talk to you about most things. They will not talk to you about why the lamps in that valley, even in the new houses with electric light, are checked twice. They will not tell you why every house, even the vacation rental, has a small thing tied to a string above the lintel of the back door. They will not tell you why no one in the valley sleeps with the bedroom window open on the side that faces the back country, even in July.

They will not tell you why on the 17th of October every year, the valley is almost completely silent between the hours of three and four in the morning. No dogs. No livestock. No human voice. And then, at four exactly, things begin again, as if nothing had happened. Except that for the next several days, the people in the valley are quieter than usual.

Whatever is in the bowl was patient enough, in 1908, to take only the people who came to it. It did not go down into the valley after the rest. Whatever Solomon’s wife and her grandmother did with the leather bags and the cedar wood and the four words at the stove may have held it. May have made an agreement. May have kept it mostly in the bowl. But only mostly.

Because Mordecai Sayer kept the store for forty-one years and never left. Because Cassidy Welch slept with cedar wood under his tongue for forty years and was buried with it. Because every house in that valley, the new ones included, has a string with a small thing on it above the back door lintel. Because the bag in the glass case at the museum is warm. Because the bowl is still standing.

When a man at the museum was asked if he could see what was inside the bag, the man looked at him a long time. Then he said very quietly, sir, you do not want to see what is inside the bag.